Panama

In this Panama Special Report, we tour Panama’s Causeway in Amador, a former U.S. military outpost and Canal Zone recreation area that is today enjoying a multi-million dollar makeover.

The Amador Causeway has a long and winding history tied to the construction of the Panama Canal and the nearly 100-year occupation of the Canal Zone by U.S. military forces. Used first as a military base, Amador was later repurposed as a sprawling recreation area for the exclusive use of U.S. military personnel and their families. Languishing in neglect since the 1999 handover dictated by the Torrijos-Carter Treaty that returned the land to Panama, the Causeway is today the focus of an ambitious plan to transform it into a five-star residential community whose key feature, a cruise-ship terminal, will rival ports of call throughout the Americas.

The Caribbean Coast of Panama is notoriously underdeveloped—a pro or a con depending on what kind of lifestyle you’re looking for. This side of the country’s infrastructure is basic at best, and, as a result, fewer foreigners have settled on Panama’s northern side. English is less generally spoken than on the Pacific side, though the touristy Bocas del Toro is an exception— here the high volume of visitors means most working in the service industry speak English, and many businesses are American or Canadian owned.

Bocas del Toro is often regarded as Panama’s top tourist destination—and for good reason, too. This is one of the most pristine areas on Panama’s Caribbean coast, and tourists have taken note of its dense rain forests, clear and clean turquoise water, and white-sand beaches.

Bocas del Toro is a province in Panama consisting of a small portion of the mainland as well as an archipelago of nine islands. It borders the Caribbean Sea to the north, Chiriquí to the south, Costa Rica to the west, and the indigenous Ngäbe-Buglé comarca to the east.

Until recently, it has been regarded as little more than a slum. To be fair, some corners of the town could leave you with that impression, but things are changing here.

The government is beginning to take note of the tourism potential and is investing in infrastructure accordingly. As recently as a decade ago, paved roads, sewage treatment, and even slightly reliable electricity had yet to arrive to town. Today, Bocas is more attractive than ever before and continues to improve thanks to the locals, tourists, and foreign residents alike. Improvements in infrastructure are ongoing and at a steady pace. Even recycling has now been recognized as a necessity if they are to save their pristine sand and surf.

The tiny finger of land that pokes out from Panama City’s southeastern corner and into the Pacific Ocean is San Felipe—better known to most as Casco Viejo, Casco Antiguo, or, simply, Casco.

Casco is laid out in grid format like a classic European city. Every few blocks, you’ll find a tree-lined plaza or the spire of a cathedral, all of which casts an Old World charm over the place. At only four avenues wide, the neighborhood is small and compact; a tiny treasure trove of historical structures best explored on foot. But despite all the visual reminders of the past, it’s also constantly evolving…

Most of Panama City’s cultural events are hosted in Casco Viejo. On any given day, you attend a gallery opening, watch a parade, listen to a concert, or stumble upon an impromptu event on the streets. There’s almost always something going on here… The best way to find out about events is to simply wander the streets.

Casco is sought out by tourists from around the world… If the prospect of living in the thick of all the action sounds appealing, Casco is probably for you.